Water purifier not working? Safe checks before you call a technician
Ten minutes of checks — power, inlet, tank, fittings, taste — that solve a fair share of RO complaints on the spot, plus a plain list of what never to open.
4 min read · Updated 19 August 2026
Before you book a visit, spend ten minutes on the checks below. A good share of "my RO has stopped" calls turn out to be an empty overhead tank, a closed inlet tap, a tripped socket, or a tube that slipped out of a push-fit joint — all things you can see and fix without tools. The rest of the time the checks tell you which fault to book, and the technician arrives with the right parts. One rule first: the purifier mixes water and electricity in a damp cabinet, so switch off at the socket before you touch any fitting.
Check one: power
- Is the indicator light on? If not, is the plug firmly in and is the socket live (test it with a phone charger)?
- Is the MCB for the kitchen circuit on?
- Is the adapter warm and silent, or silent and cold? Cold and dead usually means the adapter has failed. Do not open it; note it for the booking.
If the light is on but nothing happens, move to water.
Check two: water in, water out
- Open the kitchen tap. If the mains or overhead tank is empty, the purifier cannot fill. This is the single most common cause of "not filling" in Nellore summers when the tank runs dry by evening.
- Find the small inlet valve on the supply line (often a quarter-turn tap on the pipe behind the unit). Is it open? Someone cleaning under the sink may have nudged it.
- Is the reject line running? A steady stream into the drain while the unit fills is normal. No reject at all with the pump running means the water is not getting in; reject running constantly with the tank full means a valve is not shutting.
- Is any tube kinked or pinched against the wall?
Check three: the tank and the tap
- Empty the tank fully by leaving the tap open until it stops. If the flow was weak from a full tank but strong at first, the tank's air bladder has probably lost its charge; note that, it is a quick job for a technician.
- Look at the dispensing tap. A worn washer drips; a slimy feel inside the spout is a hygiene issue, not a fault — clean it with a small brush.
- If the unit has a transparent sediment housing, look at the candle. Brown or grey means it is due, and low flow is the reason you are here.
Check four: leaks
Switch off at the socket. Dry every fitting and the base with a cloth. Switch on, let it run, and watch. The first drop tells you where.
- A push-fit joint weeping: press the tube in firmly and straight until it stops. Most weep because the tube was pulled slightly at an angle.
- A housing weeping at the seam: tighten by hand, evenly. Do not use a wrench; over-tightening cracks housings.
- Water from the tank area: the float valve. That is a visit.
- Water only on the outside of a cold tank in a humid kitchen: condensation, not a leak. A towel underneath in the monsoon is the fix.
Check five: taste and smell
Run two full tanks out and taste a fresh glass. If the off taste is gone, it was stale water. If it stays, note whether it is flat, chemical, earthy or rotten-egg — those point to carbon filters, chlorine in the source, tank film, or a borewell sulphur problem respectively, and the distinction helps the technician.
If you have a TDS meter, measure a fresh glass. A number far above what you usually see points to the membrane or a TDS controller set too high.
What you should not do
- Do not open the adapter, the pump, or the UV chamber. The UV lamp runs on a high-voltage ballast, and the light damages eyes and skin.
- Do not bypass the float switch or the pressure switch to force filling. They protect the pump.
- Do not pour bleach, vinegar or detergent through the unit to "clean" it. Carbon and membranes do not recover from that.
- Do not run the unit with the inlet closed to "test the pump". Pumps run dry are damaged quickly.
- Do not touch anything with wet hands while the unit is live. Socket off first, every time.
What to book, based on what you found
| What you found | Book |
|---|---|
| Power and water fine, flow weak, filters old | Filter change — ₹299 |
| Filters recent, flow still weak, pump hums | Low water flow — ₹350 |
| A drip you cannot stop by hand | Leaking — ₹350 |
| Taste or smell that two tanks do not clear | Foul taste / smell — ₹299 |
| Light on, water present, nothing fills | Low water flow — ₹350 (pump and valve check) |
| No light at all, socket tested live | Water purifier service — ₹299; say "no power to unit" in the note |
Parts that turn out to be needed — a filter, membrane, adapter, float valve — are charged at MRP and shown to you before fitting, and you can say no. Tell the technician what you checked; it shortens the diagnosis and sometimes the bill.
Questions people ask
- Is it safe to open the filter housings myself?
- The sediment and carbon housings, yes, once the unit is switched off at the socket and the inlet tap is closed — they are just screw-on cylinders with a rubber seal. Expect a little water to spill. Do not open the membrane housing, the pump, the adapter, or the UV chamber; those are for a technician.
- The purifier has not been used for two weeks. Can we drink from it straight away?
- Drain the tank completely first and let it refill, then drain once more if you can spare the time. Water that sat still for a fortnight in a warm kitchen will taste stale and may have a film forming. If the second fill still smells or tastes off, book a flush and tank clean rather than pushing through it.
- Can I run the purifier during a voltage dip or on the inverter?
- It draws little power, so an inverter handles it. Voltage dips are harder on the small adapter than on anything else in the unit; if the light flickers during evening dips, switch it off until supply steadies. Never run it through a frayed extension board in a wet area under the sink.
- diy
- safety
- troubleshooting
- checks
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